ACCESSORIES FOR THE TRAIL RIDER II

 

 

 

ACCESSORIES FOR THE

TRAIL RIDER II

 

 

    Last article we looked at accessories for the trail horse and this issue we will look at some ideas for riders, suggestions to make a ride go smoother, safer and more comfortable. Let’s begin with comfortable.
If you have ever ridden a long day wearing only jeans you may have experienced friction and soreness from rough fabric. Many years ago, somewhere, somehow, a cowboy, or maybe a guide or outfitter, put on a pair of ladies’ leotards (I want to know the guy’s name). What they discovered was a smoother, frictionless, more enjoyable ride. It likely put a dent in his manhood but kudos to the guy who tried it first.
    These days polyester, polypropylene and silk blends are commonly used in light long underwear, tops and bottoms. They provide the same relief as leotards and are practical in the spring, summer or fall. They also wick away moisture and regulate body temperature during the weather changes that you would normally experience in a day’s ride. Male or female, you owe it to yourself to try a pair on your next ride.
    Riders commonly wear gloves. Unlike ropers and performance riders who like the close, dexterous, supple feel of fine leather and supple high-end synthetics, trail riders are subject to weather changes. It can be cold, dry, wet and freezing all in the same day, and then hot as your gloves dry by the fire. For this reason, we generally avoid leather as they get sloppy when wet, do not keep hands dry, and end up looking like a pretzel when left too long or too close to a drying fire. The way I see it, warm and dry is the ticket, maybe you need to spend a day in the saddle with wet, freezing hands to consider the importance. Well, here is some good news, and a rare case where cheaper may be better. Try a pair of ten-dollar, light, synthetic, Thinsulate lined ski gloves, the type you see piled in the discount bin. They are generally very waterproof and will keep your hands warmer than most lined leather gloves. Gloves are easily lost or ruined so on longer trips we generally take several pair of the light ski gloves and a thinner form fitting glove for mild weather days.
    The cantle pack that we discussed last issue was simply a tight roll with a warm jacket covered with rain gear. There are so many types of clothing materials on the market that you would have to be a scientist to fully understand the technology behind the latest fabrics but using fabrics that help regulate body temperature is very important. Again, weather changes on the trail are standard fare and a major factor in comfort is a layer that breaks the wind. Sport and work wear stores carry a variety of all-weather garments that break wind, repel water and breathe to reduce the moisture against your skin. Although heavier, there is wisdom in the traditional concept of layers of cotton, wool, and a windbreak, items you likely have on hand. Those light ski or snowboarding jackets and pants make excellent all weather riding gear for inclement weather. Add a light Thinsulate lined vest to your cantle pack. They weigh nothing, truly add a new dimension of warmth and comfort on cold mornings, cold days, cold nights in your sleeping bag, and on warm nights make a fine pillow.
    I find that a person’s choice in rain gear is like choosing a partner. You’ve gotta try on different sizes, shapes, colors, and models to see just what suits your lifestyle and freedom of movement. You don’t want to feel cramped or slimy in harsh times. Because I do a lot of walking during long days on the trail, I prefer the freedom of movement offered with a pant and jacket system as opposed to a long oilskin outback style coat. With both systems try to avoid cheap plastics and synthetics as the can be ripped up and ruined with the first thicket you push through or along. Trail riders should look for rain gear that is tear resistant. I do use a long-legged oilskin coat for rides where I expect to ride most of the time. Oil skin coats are made of oil and wax impregnated cotton. They are 100 percent waterproof, or should be, if treated and cared for properly. They come in different weights. My first one was a full-length heavy thing that soon became stiff, it was like walking around in a full-length cardboard box with a hole cut out for my head. Full length outback coats do have the advantage of spreading out and keeping the saddle drier. Now I often use a medium weight, mid-length outback with good rain pants. My favorite long time rain pants are super thin, light, and super tear resistant. I believe they were made by Heli Hansen but not sure. I have not seen others around quite like it.
    Notice that I have not mentioned rain ponchos. I do not consider them serious trail gear. They expose arms and legs and flap around noisily, good spook practice for your horse, just make sure you are not in it.
    Take along some ear plugs to wear on very windy days as they help prevent earaches. They also keep the sound of your tent mates snoring at bay. The only problem being you may feel the grizzly bear chewing on your leg before you hear it. An ear band, scarf, or bandana wrapped around your head can work with your cowboy hat pulled down over for poor weather riding. A light toque will do the same and be a great friend on cold nights and mornings. A synthetic waterproof toque/head cap, the type used by hunters is great. I have written articles on why hats are critical and the advantage of the weatherproof cowboy hat as protection from weather and branches that are deflected from a quickly lowered hat brim rather than gouging your face, or worse, your eyes. Straw hats and baseball type hats are fine in fine weather but not serious trail rider’s fare.
    A riding helmet covered with a plastic rain sleeve for poor weather is the safe way to go. I tried one on the other day and was amazed to see how it looked bulky but was as light as a couple of five-star Stetsons. Staying with safety, head injuries are the leading cause of death from riding and chest injuries second. As our children were growing up and subject to the rough trails that dad dragged them over, they often wore a life jacket as well as a helmet to protect them from body and head injuries. I can tell you that looking back at our munchkins shielded up like a ninja was a satisfying feeling.
    A few years back we headed up a long mountain ridge, then over a pass and up and down some rough country on route to our alpine camp. It was a tiring, cold, wet day and as nightfall approached my body fell into frightening bouts of shakes and chills. It was more than the weather, illness had sent in. With the damp weather and a cold night ahead, something needed to be done. I scrounged up a few cheap plastic water bottles, filled them with hot water from the campfire tea pot, and crawled in to endure the long night – and what an absolute relief it was! Those impromptu water bottles saved me, and ever since then we travel with a rubber hot water bag. You would not believe how pleasant a water bottle at your feet and at your waist can make your nights.
    Some items we always carry include a multi tool, head lamp, and bear spray. A multi tool is one of those items that you never felt you needed until you start wearing one on your hip. They tighten loose screws on bridles and saddles, cut leather and rope, pull lacings through holes and grab hot items by the campfire. The same knife blade cleans toenails in the evening, castrates’ hogs in the morning, and makes sandwiches for lunch. They do it all. There are many models available but when you decide on one be sure it has one blade with a serrated edge, much easier to cut rope with than a smooth edge. I often also carry a small, light folding pocketknife with a smooth and serrated section of the blade.
    On your hip with your multi tool can be a can of bear spray if you ride in predator areas. It offers peace of mind, and you are not happy with-it being 90 percent effective just keep in mind it is better than 10 percent effective, which is about what your fingers and toes would amount too. Practice pulling your spray and slipping the clip to feel as confident as possible prior to the bear breathing in your face.
    A head lamp is a wonderful addition, far superior to a flashlight as your hands are free to lead horses and do whatever. Most have a red lamp as well as bright white light and the red light is less likely to blind the horse’s vision at night. To be safe, you should walk at night, particularly on unknown trails. I prefer the strongest L.E.D. models available, powered by readily available AA or AAA batteries.
    We always travel with a lighter and fire starter, often in a small zip lock bag. On long days and poor weather, a small campfire, where permitted, can be a highlight for the day. Take along some tea and a small pot and cup in you saddle bag or day pack for a body warming. Always balance the weight of your accessories on either side of your horse. In a separate zip lock we often carry bug dope, both horse and human.
    A collapsible water bucket can be handy if you need to carry feed or water to your horse or campfire. They can look big but scrunch to a little ball. Body cleanliness means something to most and toilet paper is commonly carried. Try carrying a small hand sized pack of baby wipes instead. They are moist, hygienically cleaner, and you will feel truly refreshed with a face wash or even a body wash.
    Trail axes and saws are a must on our rides on unknown trails or trails where dead fall and brush is expected. The trail axe blade is thinner and meant for limbing while the pole axe is more effective for splitting wood. The trail axe handle is three quarter length or less and about half the weight of a full-length axe. It is interesting how good trail axes vary in how broad the blade is, often being very broad and yet the Swedish trail axe blade is only a few inches deep and yet very effective. Good axe steel will have a nice high pitched ‘ring’ to it when tapped with a piece of metal, you need to compare high- and low-quality sounds. Good steel will hold an edge longer. The handle should have a nice adept feel, not clumsy, and be of a close grain hardwood. Do not rule out a trail saw as they are safer to use, very effective for clearing brush - in some cases faster than an axe, and handy in camp for firewood. They are often collapsible, portable, and some are designed with scabbards to be hung on the saddle just as a trial axe. You might chose to send an experienced person or youngster out to wrangle some firewood with a saw, but not an axe. Or and experienced person as a saw is much safer – I prefer a saw when serviceable.
    You may or may not consider spurs to be a trail rider’s accessory. To me, their use has been a mystery, viewed as useful and flagrant on John Wayne’s cowboy boots but obtrusive and aggressive for me to consider as a trail rider. Now that I am a little more informed, I think, I may try a pair for certain horses that need reinforcement to responding to cues, specifically walking out and turning. The key here is reinforcement of applied pressures. They were never intended to be cruel, to jam the horse to make it go faster, but rather as a reminder to respond to the cue, or, as the horse responds, to soften the cue so only a subtle touch is necessary, similar to the concept of a high ported mouth bar. The large rowels that a trail rider should use may look aggressive but are softer against the horse’s sides then small, pointy rowels. Having said all of this, we need to ask ourselves the question, if the horse is properly trained and responding softly to our cues then why we need the spurs anyhow, at least for trail riding, and you should not need them, which is why they are rarely seen on the trail. And as mentioned, trail riders often do a lot of walking, down hills, in rough, rootsy, rocky terrain, and one would think spurs would only be in the way. What we see more often as encouragement to step out on cue is a riding crop, the tail end of the reins, or a twig against the horse’s rump.
    Well, if you have found only one idea useful, I am a happy trail rider. Happy Trails!

 

The multitool, headlamp, and collapsable water bucket are items we do not leave home without. Spend a few dollars extra and buy quality. Don’t forget extra batteries. The headlamp makes and excellent lantern hanging inside a tent. The collapsable tabletop is really handy if you are to make a camp for a few days. Just tie a couple of sticks on either side of two trees and spread it out. You will need to have your own made. Use aluminum and light material and it will not weigh much. Lay it along the top of one pack box when you pack up.

A thin synthetic sports type leotard is a real friction reducer, a relief for a sore butt and legs. No – that’s not my body wearing them – I wish it was. Rain gear is somewhat personal. I do not use outback coats as we ride tough country and walk often, so pant bottoms work best. We like our rain gear super light and super tough. Avoid ponchos. Snowboarding or ski jackets and pants make excellent all-weather gear. The rain gear above is somewhat heavy and cheap for long term use.

Gloves are often not given much consideration. You need to experience spending 8 hours in snow and wet and freezing weather a few times, hands like clubs, to make it a priority. Light leather gloves or better yet, light mechanix type gloves, are good for decent weather, but not rain proof or insulated. The ski/hunting type gloves are great. Waterproof, can dry them out, insulated, and often cheap in the after-season bins. A few pairs.

Trail riders around home can often get by with cowboy boots or packer boots, or a low top light hiking type shoe. But for back country trips a quality higher top boot is required. They can be lighter, synthetic types, you do not need a stiff soled, heavy mountain boot – although when broken in they work fine. Don’t plan on walking? Consider yourself too much a cowboy? Too lazy? Then stay on nice, groomed trails. Wild trips require walking through bog and deadfall and down steep slopes. Be sure to have stirrups wide enough for your boot to slip in and out and practice the act. And foot in only to the ball of your foot.

We discussed axes in Part I, but it should be stated that your trail saw, with scabbard, should get more use – for clearing branches, gathering firewood, cutting deadfall, quartering game. It does most of what an axe does and often quicker. And much safer. Buy a trail saw with scabbard. The larger Fiskars pruning saw is great.